If possible park in one the car parks in Cullen then walk down the main road to the harbour (it may be possible to park nearer here).  At the foot of the steep road leading to the harbour turn East (right) and follow the coastal path East to the wide grassy bay.

Logie Head is visible as the point on the right of the bay. Simply follow this path (sometimes muddy) to the pinnacle, passing a small derelict house on the way.  The pinnacle is just a few meters away from the climbing area.

This is a small climbing ground on the pretty coastline between Banff and Buckie.  The rock is good solid greywacke with numerous flakes and cracks and is everywhere steep, being either vertical or slightly overhanging.  This means that the climbing is strenuous but well protected.

Helpfully the rock dries quickly and may even be climbed on in the wet, if you are really keen!  It has a wide variety of routes from Diff to E26a with plenty in the Severe - HVS range.  It is probably the best crag in the area for beginners however the rock is just too steep to be ideal and setting up belays at the top requires some consideration.

Having said that few climbers could fail to enjoy a visit to this pleasant place and many would be able to fill a fair days climbing.  It is well situated for weather, when the west is wet and the Aberdeen coast has sea haar, Logie Head may be a good bet.  The crag itself is a long fin of solid rock jutting North and is split by a rather manky gully which provides access to the seaward end.  Only this end is affected by the tide as the rest of the crag starts abuts the grassy foreshore.  Resting sea birds are not a problem as they usually frequent the larger chossy cliffs close by.

Recommended routes are:

• Cullinary Delight, VS 5a***
• Sea Mouse, Hard, Severe 4b
• Sea Anemone, E1 5b***
• Black Hole, Difficult*
• Rising Star, HVS 5b***
• Fallen Star, VS 4c***

Note:  It is worth mentioning that due to the actual form of the rock (with many flakes and cracks) there are some areas where the rock must be treated with caution but these are easy to spot and should not pose a threat to any alert climber.  Even if I was not a climber I would still like to visit this pleasant place for a walk by the seaside.  And equally if the weather turns wet or you simply get hungry the village offers good hospitability and is well worth a look.

Niall James Butchart    u08njb@abdn.ac.uk

For the comprehensive guide please consult the SMC guide:

'Northeast Outcrops' 1994 Ed. Neil Morrison.  Scottish Mountaineering Club & Trust;

ISBN:090752141X